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CREATING TEMPLATES OF YOUR HORSE'S BACK FOR SADDLE
FITTING
We need a simple but good system for
determining the shape of the horse’s back in order to even come close to
finding a saddle that will fit properly. All too often, the only thing that is
asked by the saddle maker or the retailer is that you provide them with a
tracing of the horse’s withers. Often they don’t even specify exactly where to
take the “wither” tracing or provide you with adequate information about how
to make an accurate tracing. Assuming that you did get that part right – whoa
- but what about the rest of the horse’s back? Does it matter if the saddle
only fits at the withers? The answer is that the saddle needs to fit the
entire conformation of the horse’s back, not just the withers, so let’s do it
right!
There are a number of systems to measure
backs such as gauges, moldable plastics, gel pads, and medical plaster casting
tape. They all have merit. However, I use a very inexpensive and simple system
that, in my hands, has worked well. It can also work well for you. Requiring
only a minimum of materials, measurement can be accomplished with a few
inexpensive tools that you likely already possess.
You will need a flexible artists
ruler (available at stationery stores, art stores of office supply stores such
as “Staples.” Even less expensively, you can substitute a 20-inch piece of
14-gauge electrical wire that includes a ground wire).
Have 5 or 6 pieces of cardboard, a
sharp knife (an inexpensive box cutter works well, or heavy scissors).
Use a “Sharpie” type of permanent
marker (or livestock chalk) to mark locations on the horse where the templates
need to be placed.Locate a firm and flat surface where the horse can stand
while being measured and not be distracted. You will need to stand on a
mounting block when “molding” the ruler to the horse’s back, so it is very
helpful to have an assistant hold the horse and make sure that the horse is
“standing square” while you make the measurements.
Materials Recap:
1. Five or six 10”x16” pieces of
cardboard (it’s a good idea to have extra pieces in case you goof-up)
2. Flexible artist’s ruler – or a
20-inch piece of 14-gauge electrical wire with ground wire. Place a mark at
the center of the ruler or wire with a marking pen or piece of duct tape.
3. A permanent marking pen such as a
“Sharpie” marker or livestock marker. (Don’t worry ---- “permanent” is not
permanent on horses!)
4. Heavy scissors, box cutter, or
sharp knife
5. Mounting block (or sturdy box or
step stool)
6. Digital camera (optional)
7. Fly spray if flies are present
Where to Measure:
Step 1. With the horse standing
squarely, use the marking pen to draw a vertical line 1.5 to 2 inches behind
the rear edge of the shoulder blade on the left side of the horse.
Step 2. Draw a vertical line with the
marking pen four inches behind the first one. (This will be the location of
your next template.) Check to be sure that your horse is still standing
squarely.
Step 3. Draw a vertical line from the
mid point of the back extending outward and down the ribcage 4 inches for the
next template. Repeat at a point four inches further back and again as
necessary until the last rib is located
Step 4. Draw a vertical line downward
from the last rib. If properly fit, the saddle should not be weight bearing
beyond this point, so this is the last measurement on the back. This point may
be slightly more or less behind the preceding template Step 5. Measure and
record the distance of each template mark from the first one (the one behind
the shoulder blade) on a piece of paper. When the templates have been created,
recored those measurements on the appropriate templates. If you have a digital
camera, this is an excellent time to take a side-view picture showing the
markings on the horse so you can send it or take it to the saddle maker or
provider (tack shop, etc.) along with the actual templates.
Measuring with the Flexible Ruler and
Creating Templates (Be sure the horse is
standing squarely)
While standing on the mounting block
or other sturdy object that is placed at the side of the horse at the
shoulder, mold the flexible ruler over the withers at the first line drawn on
the horse’s back. (Make sure the center mark on the ruler is on the center of
the spine.) The ruler must be placed on the withers and back perpendicular to
the ground surface without being tilted forward or rearward or twisted. By
standing on the mounting block you can see both sides of the horse, making
sure that the “ruler” is straight up and down on both sides of the horse
(perpendicular to the floor/ground). You will be measuring the horse in a
static/resting position, but when the horse gathers itself to move, the back
elevates slightly and may also widen slightly at this point and at the base of
the withers. Therefore, it is very helpful if you have an assistant perform a
slight back lift by pressing on the sternum at the girth area (show diagram
with caption about spreading your legs and bending your knees) – it may
require a bit of stimulus with the fingernails. Caution!! Be sure the horse
allows you to touch or put pressure in this area! It is absolutely mandatory
that you practice this on the ground before standing on the mounting block
alongside the horse! Practice this until you are assured that the horse won’t
move while his back is being lifted.
Having molded the ruler while the
back was relaxed, it should require only a slight adjustment to record the
changes when the back is elevated. After successfully having taken the
flexible ruler/wire withers measurement with the horse’s back slightly
elevated, carefully remove the flexible ruler and place it on the cardboard.
This is measurement #1; mark that number on
the cardboard. Be sure you have noted which is the left side and which the
right side of the horse. with the pen, trace onto the cardboard . Trace along
the inside edge of the ruler. Utilize the slight “back-lifted position” for
also creating the template behind the shoulder blades and for the template at
the base of the withers. Next complete the cardboard tracings every four
inches. The last template should be at the last rib and thus, may not follow
the four inch “rule.”
Abbreviated Procedure:
Step 1: Stand on mounting block with
horse standing squarely.
Step 2: Place ruler/wire on withers.
Step 3: Have assistant lift horse’s
back.
Step 4: Measure withers with
ruler/wire; step down from block.
Step 5: Transfer measurement onto
cardboard.
Step 6: Repeat measurement procedures
for the next template to be made four inches behind the first template.
Step 7: The back does not have to be
lifted at all for the subsequent templates. Cutting out the templates: Before
cutting the cardboard, be sure the templates are marked with the number and/or
position, the date, left and right delineation, distance measurements, and the
name of the horse and the owner. Use the knife or scissors to cut the
templates. The part that gives you the shape of the back can then be sent to
the saddle-maker or taken to the tack shop. They must know the location of the
first template as that will be the location of the points (English) or where
the fork of the saddle (Western) makes contact with the withers (this is where
the photographs showing the markings on the horse’s back become valuable).
Very
Important: Be sure to save and use the
leftover portions of the cardboard cutouts to check your accuracy by placing
each “left-over” portion onto the appropriate location on the horse’s back to
confirm the accuracy. (Number each cutout as you did the other portion of the
cardboard and mark the left side and the right side.) If you or other persons
are going to use the templates to check an existing saddle - or are going to
check out saddles at a tack shop, you/they should take along a ruler in order
to measure the distance that each subsequent template lies behind the one at
the shoulder. This is required so you can be sure that each template can be
accurately placed on the underside of the saddle in the area that corresponds
to placement on the horse’s back.
Conclusions and additional tips:
These templates can be very helpful
in selecting a saddle that fits the horse. They can prevent many frustrating,
time-consuming, and costly trips to the tack shop. Because they do not provide
definition of the arc of the horse’s back (the arc from withers to loin) or
location of the center of balance (which varies from saddle to saddle), the
templates do not guarantee a proper fitting saddle for the rider or the horse.
It behooves the rider to have a professional evaluate the final fit for both
horse and rider.
If you have a horse with very uneven wither
symmetry, it is helpful to create another template two inches in front of the
template behind the shoulder blades. When the withers are asymmetrical there
can be problems with having enough side-to-side clearance at the “head” of the
saddle. This template allows you to check for side-to-side clearance as well
as clearance between the top of the spinous processes and the pommel of the
saddle.
The templates can be made even more valuable
by the additional use of a stiff piece of material that is placed and molded
to the back where the center of the panels will rest on the horse This will
help determine whether the arc or rocker of the prospective saddle is
appropriate.The artist’s flexible ruler is usually too flexible for this
measurement and will not hold its shape during transport to the cardboard. The
best material to use is the 14 gauge electrical wire with ground. It needs to
be 24 to 26 inches long and marked at the line made for the first template
(approximately 2 inches behind the withers) and at the end of the last rib. If
it is not feasible to take or ship the wire, the curve of the wire can be
traced on a piece of cardboard and the curve duplicated back to wire at the
saddle-makers or tack shop. If you are dealing with a horse that has very
set-out shoulders that create hollows behind the shoulder, a wire/ruler long
enough to include the posterior part of the shoulder is helpful in selecting a
saddle or design that does not cause the panels/bars to interfere with
shoulder movement.
WHITE PAD TECHNIQUE FOR EVALUATION OF SADDLE FIT WITH RIDER-UP
Concept and Principles Colored Chalk (Carpenter’s Chalk) is sprinkled onto
the horses back in the saddle area. A white pad is then placed on the horse’s
back and it is tacked up. When the horse is ridden, the chalk is picked up off
the back and transferred to the white pad. The chalk will be transferred to
the pad in density proportional to the amount of pressure that the saddle
(with the rider’s weight) is placing onto the panel or bar areas. Materials
Required White pad: For English horses, a ¼” thick cotton square dressage pad
works well. For Western saddles, the same type of dressage pad can be placed
on the back and then a Navaho type of pad folded to ½” in thickness placed on
top of the square dressage pad works well Carpenters Marking Chalk: (This is a
powdered and colored, form of chalk that is used in construction work. A
string passes through a reservoir of the chalk and then can be “snapped” to
make a visible straight line mark on construction materials, or on the
ground.) The chalk is available in several colors such as blue, red, yellow or
orange. Choose a color that will not only show well on the pad, but one that
also contrasts well with the horses color. A Mounting Block Should be
Available Procedure: It is desirable that the horse has had some warm-up
before proceeding with the next step. Evenly powder the horse’s back in the
saddle area. Sprinkle with a moderate amount of powder. Too little powder will
not allow for easily differentiated density levels on the pad. Too much powder
will mask subtle variations. Work the powdered chalk into the hair coat with a
comb such as a mane comb. Sometimes it helps after spreading the powder to
spray very lightly with water. Very carefully (best done with two people)
place the pad in position on the horse’s back. It is best to plan ahead so you
do not have to move the pad once it is set down. If it must be moved be sure
to lift and replace it rather than sliding the pad. Then (again preferably
with two persons) carefully place and secure the saddle. If not placed
correctly, again be sure to lift it and re-position. Do not slide the saddle
into the appropriate position. Have the rider mount with a mounting block. It
is helpful if a person on the other side can hold the stirrup on the “off”
side. The rider should then do about five minutes of warm up (if not
previously warmed up) and then in a manner consistent with its normal use or
discipline and level of training, work the horse for 15 minutes. After the
work-out, the procedure is reversed, by having the rider carefully dismount,
taking care not to pull the saddle to one side. Carefully lift the saddle
straight upward off the back, and then do the same with the pad. You are now
ready to evaluate the pad. Evaluation of the Pad Remember that the pad will
pick up the chalk in direct proportion to the amount of pressure applied by
the panels or the bars. Conversely no chalk (or a very minimal amount), will
be picked up if there is no contact between the saddle and the horse’s back.
The ideal would be to see chalk picked up and spread at a uniform density over
most of the panel or bar area. Seldom is this ideal going to occur. Look for
symmetry of pattern from side to side. In many, if not most instances the
pattern will be lacking complete symmetry. Recognize that not only the fit of
the saddle, but also the fit of the saddle with the rider’s weight can totally
alter the symmetry of pressure. Conformational and postural aspects of the
rider as well as the rider’s balance will be reflected in the density
coloration of the pad. In asymmetrical patterns also consider the
possibilities of a broken tree, panels that are unevenly flocked or
compressed, shoulder asymmetry in the horse, twisted or crooked trees (and
bars), panels not installed symmetrically on the tree. Commonly identified
problems include “bridging” - places where the panel or bars bridge across an
area of the back. These are exemplified by dense chalk patterns at the pommel
and cantle ends of the bars or panels. Excess pressure from stirrup bars show
up as areas of increased density. Ideally there should be no pick up of chalk
at the stirrup bar locations, nor on the midline, directly over the spine.
Chalk pick-up over the spine may indicate inadequate gullet/pommel clearance,
inadequate channel width, or pressure being put onto the spine during lateral
work, or the possibility of a broken tree. A tree that is too narrow/pinching,
will show increased density lower in the wither pocket, whereas a tree that is
too wide will show increased density high in the wither pocket. With respect
to bridging noted during the static phase of evaluating the saddle on the
horse without the rider mounted, you now have the opportunity to see how the
rider’s weight affected the “bridge” and the appropriateness of any bridge
built into the saddle design. Discussion: I refer to this system as a poor
man’s pressure mapping system. It is effective, inexpensive and with a little
experience yields a lot of information. The pads are easily cleaned by hosing
and then washing and are re-useable many many times. The test provides a
graphic and dynamic measurement. It gives you the all important three way
relationship, i.e. the relationship between the horse, the saddle and the
rider. Always remember that the dynamics of an ideally and properly fitted
saddle can change dramatically once the rider is mounted. It is appropriate to
make the rider aware of this fact. An inappropriate chalk pattern may not
indicate at all that the saddle is at fault, but may reflect how the rider
balances himself or herself in the saddle. Where is the rider’s point of
balance and how is the rider’s body symmetry? What postural deficits might the
rider exhibit in the saddle (especially while working the horse)? Asymmetric
patterns may also indicate asymmetry or postural deficits within the horse.
One needs observe the head carriage during the work phase. Is the horse’s back
dropped? Is the horse showing signs of resistance? A horse that carries his
head above the bit and hollows his back will seriously affect the fit of the
saddle and create “bridging” issues. Since this system is an inexpensive and
affords a simple way to exhibit the dynamic effect of saddle fit on the
horse’s back, one can afford to repeat the test multiple time throughout a
competitive season. If the horse’s back has changed shape due to weight change
etc., it is an easy to do “white pad tests” every couple of months. As an
additional plus, one can also evaluate the chalk pattern left on the horses
back. Where there has been pressure, the chalk will have been removed from the
back. Where contact has been lacking the chalk will still be present on the
horse’s back. Each time you do a “white pad test,” you will become more astute
in your observations. The pad can provide a strong visual reference to the
rider/client. (A picture is worth a thousand words.) It is a great idea to
video the rider while he or she is working the horse. Additionally; I suggest
you take digital pictures of the imprinted pad for your files.
LOW HEEL/HIGH HEEL SYNDROME - UNRECOGNIZED
PROBLEMS & CONSIDERATIONS
Introduction: The commonly
observed condition where the heel of one front foot is higher than the other
has ramifications that extend well beyond the effects on the foot itself. This
condition is also observed in the hind feet though less frequently. However,
because of limitations and scope, this paper will direct its attention
primarily to high heel/low heel of the front feet. How to best deal with the
condition has remained a “hot topic” among farriers and veterinarians for a
very long time. It is the aim of this paper to explore some of the
biomechanics and often un-recognized ramifications such as creating nearly
impossible saddle fit, muscle imbalance, and changes in posture. All of these
can result in loss of performance and are a potential source of lameness. Many
if not most of the veterinary and farrier professions are of a mind that
asymmetry is the normal state and is associated with brain lateralization,
creating a dominant side (referred to in the human as handedness). It is felt
that the heel/hoof capsule asymmetry is associated with grazing patterns,
perhaps genetically instilled and what you see is what you get. I think that,
whatever the source, a case can be made that the limit of the body’s tolerance
for asymmetry is not infrequently exceeded and this case horses need all the
help they can get. At least that is the situation if they are to be ridden and
even more so the situation if a high level of performance is expected. There
is a remarkable tolerance for asymmetry in the body of most structures. Our
problem as veterinarians, farriers, and riders is where is that point where
asymmetric tolerance ceases and pathologic change and damage commence? Why is
it exceeded? In a natural state, i.e. so called, "wild" horses, if they exceed
the range of functional asymmetry, they become part of the food chain. In our
domestic world, we breed any and everything and discard or cull nearly
nothing. I make this last statement without judgment. But by our management
practices, it is my contention that we put into the pool many horses whose
asymmetries go beyond the balance tolerance point and create pain, performance
deficit, subclinical lameness and eventually overt lameness. The problem is
compounded by inappropriate riding, inappropriate trimming, inappropriate
shoeing, inappropriate manipulation, inappropriate saddling and inappropriate
veterinary procedures. In my career as a veterinarian specializing performance
horse issues and subclinical lameness, muscle tension, imbalances and symmetry
since 1990, I deal daily with muscle issues, saddle related problems, shoeing
related problems and back pain. These problems constitute as much as 90% of my
practice. That has afforded me ample opportunity to observe and evaluate the
relationships of high heel, low heel to pathologic consequences on a first
hand basis. Awareness of some of the problems came to me about many years ago
via Moses Gonzales, journeyman farrier. He demonstrated to me the effects that
a low heel/high heel syndrome had on the horse’s posture. Farriers and
veterinarians, all too often, counter Gonzales’s observations with skepticism
or antagonism. Healthy skepticism is always appropriate, so let us try to
examine the issues on their merits. I believe that antagonism needs to be
challenged and skepticism addressed. At the very least, this subject needs to
be revisited with an open mind. Appropriate trimming and/or shoeing combined
with appropriate body work and riding remains the key to soundness.
Significant awareness has come from recognizing that the syndrome can grossly
alter the shape of the shoulder and the back. Altering the posture and shape
of the shoulder and wither area creates problems with saddle fit. The
resulting posture of the horse affects not only saddle placement but also
alters the rider’s posture and balance and ultimately the rider’s soundness.
Postural deviation and effect on joint angles as a result of High Heel/Low
Heel: Let us first discuss the overall postural deviations that are a direct
consequence of the lower of the two heels. It should be clarified, at this
point, that that it is not the intent to address a true “clubfoot.” This paper
is also not addressing an anatomically “short leg” syndrome, (though to a
cursory evaluation, the limb with the lower heel may give the appearance of a
shorter leg). The low heeled limb is functionally shorter – not likely to be
anatomically shorter. A lower heel creates obvious changes in the joint angles
at the pastern, fetlock, elbow and scapulo-humeral joint (shoulder joint).
Compared to the limb with the higher heel the angles on the low-heeled limb
will open (get larger), and the limb will become more vertical than its
counterpart throughout its length. The pastern joints and fetlock will be
placed in more extension (and possible subluxation). The elbow angle will be
more open. As the scapulo/humeral joint (shoulder joint) opens, the “point” of
the shoulder will be moved caudally so its position is farther back than on
the higher heeled limb. The position of the scapula becomes altered so that it
rotates more vertical. This verticality creates a bulging appearance to the
shoulder and over-development of the associated muscles on the lower heeled
limb. This asymmetry in the shoulder will cause the saddle to not sit straight
on the horse. The pressure that a “crooked” saddle places on one side of the
thoracic spinous processes leads to pain and primary chiropractic issues on of
the upper thoracic vertebrae as well Observe that the horse usually has a
marked tendency to lean on the shoulder of the lower heeled limb. This may
leave some observers to conclude that the measurements that are to be
described are “off” only because the horse is leaning on that shoulder and
that if one pushes the horse to an equal weight bearing that the measurements
tend to even up. However, this point must be addressed and clarified. We must
answer, why, given a choice, does the horse choose to lean on that shoulder?
It is because of the difference in heel height that the horse returns to
leaning on the shoulder of the low-heeled side when allowed to do so. This is
the posture that the horse seeks as a compensatory posture. Assessment of High
Heel/Low Heel Syndrome: Commence assessment of the forelimbs by observing the
horse’s posture, its joint positions and angles from several directions. To be
meaningful, the horse must be on a flat even surface. The horse must be
standing “squared up” on all four feet, and allowed to be bearing weight in
its chosen posture. Ideally, the assessment is best performed after the horse
has been trimmed, balanced and is ready to shoe. Having one hoof placed even 3
to 4 inches ahead of or behind the other can alter the accuracy of the
evaluation. Start the observations from six to eight feet away in a position
directly in front of the horse. Observe progressively from the foot upward the
position and relative heights of the joints. The foot with the lower heel will
usually be significantly larger – the greater the size difference and the
longer the low heel/high heel condition has been present, the more difference
that will be evident. Difference in hoof size is a prime indicator that this
condition exists. (Also while in this observation position, evaluate the
coronary band for possible evidence of medial lateral balance. Note this is
only one factor in medial lateral balancing and may be misleading) The fetlock
joint on the lower heel side is generally lower than the higher heeled side.
Next check the position of the styloid process of the radius. This is the
“bump” or “top of the shelf” on the upper medial side of the knee (carpus). It
is commonly lower on the low-heeled side. As the next step, evaluate and
compare the height and symmetry of the points of the shoulder (scapulo-humeral
joint). Generally it will be noted that the joint appears lower on the low
heel side, and that there is hypertrophy of the descending pectoral muscles on
the side with the higher heel. With practice it can become evident that the
shoulder point on the lower heeled side will also be placed more rearward. For
an overall picture of the asymmetry, it can be very helpful to look at the
spatial symmetry created by the inner margins of each limb and of the ventral
aspect of the chest wall. In other words, look not at the limbs themselves but
use them as a “picture frame” of the space between the limbs. Next, stand
several feet away at the shoulder at a 90-degree angle from the horse’s
direction of stance. From this position it is easy to see difference in
pastern angle. In many instances, from this position, the pastern axis can be
observed to be “broken backwards.” Broken pastern axis is accompanied by
varying degree of subluxation of the pastern and coffin joints. The toe may
appear to be longer on the low heel side. The shoulder joint can now often be
seen to be anywhere from ½ inch to 2 inches rearward of the limb with the
higher heel. The difference in heel height is best seen by positioning one’s
self another 45 degrees toward the rear of the horse and from about six to
eight feet away. Next the horse should be evaluated from behind and slightly
above the croup. In order for a short person (or when examining a very large
horse), to adequately make this evaluation, it helps to stand on a sturdy
object of some sort. It will be noted that the shoulder of the limb with the
lower heel will usually appear to have a significant lateral “bulge” and it
will appear to be higher than its counterpart. This is because the scapula has
been displaced or rotated into a more vertical position. The shoulder with the
higher heel will often appear to slope or fall away in an exaggerated manner.
Effects of High Heel/Low Heel Syndrome on Vertebral Function: From a
chiropractic standpoint I often find significant subluxation and pain in the
6th and or 7th cervical vertebrae. These subluxations are most often on the
side of the higher heel and relate to the animals response of keeping his eyes
on a horizontal plane. They often exhibit muscle pain and stiffness and spasm
at the base of the neck. Moreover, because of dural connections, subluxations
here also result in tension, dural twist (twisting of the dural-tube in which
the spinal cord is suspended and anchored) at the level of the poll and at the
lumbo-sacral connection. High Heel/Low Heel Affects Saddle Fit: Now, let’s
step back to again consider the consequences of this condition on the fit of a
saddle. The larger shoulder tends to exhibit some degree of muscle hypertrophy
in the Trapezius muscle and the Serratus thoracis. Other involved muscles may
include the Rhomboids, Deltoid, and Subscapularis muscles. The Trapezius
muscle and the Longissimus muscle support the fork the “points” or gullet bar
in the fork, or head of the saddle. These muscles support the forward part of
the bars or panels as well. This applies to both English and Western saddles
Saddles are for obvious reasons built symmetrically, so when placed on a horse
with muscle hypertrophy (enlargement) on one side, the tree rotates diagonally
into a position in order to establish similar contact pressure on both sides
of the “wither pocket.” Torque of the saddletree, however, may make contact
and place excessive pressure on one side of the lightly covered thoracic
spines and leaves more open space on the opposing side. Pressure exerted in
areas close to bone (with little muscle covering) result in a significant
magnification of the pressure. The result of this unilateral pressure is pain,
and loss of ability to perform bending and lateral movements. The pressure can
also create chiropractic joint issues in the thoracic vertebrae of the
withers. The shoulder that is “bulged” laterally may strike the edge of the
panel or bar as the scapula moves through its range of motion. This can create
significant muscle bruising and serves to further twist the saddle. Because
the opposite shoulder typically has more slope, the saddle may tend to fall or
slip to the sloping shoulder side of the horse. This is a second reason for
pressure on the thoracic spinous processes. The problem of slipping to the
side is particularly troubling if the croup is also involved and is lower on
the same side. This is can occur when a high/low conditions exists in the hind
feet as well. More often, however when the horse is observed in motion, one
side of the croup raises more on one side than the other it relates to, muscle
balance, chiropractic or joint issues in the hind limbs. Regardless of cause,
it creates an even worse scenario for slippage when combined with shoulder
asymmetry. The resulting hypertonicity can and does lead to lameness via the
following biomechanical factors. High Heel/Low Heel Affects Horse Performance
and Soundness as well as Rider Imbalance and Pain: The consequences for the
horse are muscle pain in the shoulder(s) and shortening of gait. When any
animal experiences pain the response is to alter the posture. This leads to
inappropriate loading of a limb while moving within the required gaits. When
the skeletal system support is inappropriate or inadequate the muscles attempt
to take on the load. Performance is compromised as the condition will lead to
subclinical and finally outright lameness. A rider who must alter his/her
position and posture because of improper position of the saddle will
eventually create further performance problems and increase the risk of
lameness for the horse. Most “crooked riders” have slowly allowed their bodies
to compensate and are usually quite unaware of their compensation until it is
brought to their attention. Thus, the rider may end up with chronic back, hip
or knee pain. The crooked saddle and side slipping saddle causes the rider to
place more weight in one stirrup than the other. This, also contributes to
creating a “crooked” traveling horse and, therefore, is a cause of subclinical
and eventually clinical lameness. There are many other postural deviations of
the rider that can add to the problem. Wither vertebral chiropractic problems
are one of the most common causes for a horse to react badly to the tightening
of the cinch or girth. The subluxations create neuromuscular irritability in
muscles of the shoulder and in the area covered by the girth or cinch. Girth
pain is so ubiquitous as to be considered “normal” or just a “behavioral”
response. I contend that 90% of these horses are reacting to pain. The pain
from the saddle creating pressure and the neuromuscular stimulation of the
shoulder muscles creates a chain of muscle shortening in the posterior
shoulder and forelimb muscles that can and does lead to superficial digital
tendon strain and suspensory strain and eventual suspensory tears. As a side
note on performance issues, horses, typically, also often experience trouble
with a lead or lead change and may tend to cross canter. In cases not
complicated by other musculo-skeletal issues, it occurs in the lead on the
side of the higher heel. About 80% of horses are low on the left front, so in
most (uncomplicated) cases the horse has more problem picking up or
maintaining the right lead. High Heel/Low Heel Set Up The Likelihood Of A
“Long Toe/Low Heel Syndrome” With regard to the foot itself, the syndrome
produces a long toe with the heel becoming under-run. This, as we know from
Dr. Robert Bowker’s work at Michigan State University Veterinary School of
Medicine, “long toe/low heel syndrome”, leads to inadequate support in the
posterior part of the foot and eventually to degeneration of the digital
cushion. Digital cushion failure when present, leads to a “broken pastern
axis” that is very difficult and in some cases, impossible to correct. It is
not uncommon to see large, flat and splayed out frogs accompanying the foot
with a degenerated digital cushion as the frog tries to compensate and support
the posterior portion of the foot. There is an obvious consequence to be
recognized with regard to major factors leading to “navicular syndrome.” Among
these factors a horse with long toe/low heel tends to “break” the pastern axis
and place much more stress on the deep digital flexor tendon. The deep flexor
tendon is, in turn, putting pressure on the navicular bursa and impar
ligament. There is a wonderful adage that when one finds a problem look
elsewhere for the cause. An unacceptable level of heel height asymmetry, I
propose, is the root cause for asymmetry and pathology at the level of the
topline. But, for the many reasons presented, I feel quite strongly that it is
inadequate to address the foot without appreciating the consequences on the
topside of the horse. Without seeking and correcting the root cause (in this
case the high/low heel syndrome) any other treatment is only palliative. By
properly addressing the high heel, low heel syndrome the farrier can be of
enormous help to both the rider and the horse. There have been many theories
advanced as to reasons for the low heel. Regardless of the originating factor
whether genetic or acquired, we are all aware that the horse, once the
condition is established, will typically graze with the lower heeled limb
advanced. It is certainly a reasonable theory that pressure (on the heel),
maintained through many grazing periods, distorts the hoof capsule, unbalances
the foot, advances the break-over location and causes the heel to become
under-run. Pressure over time creates distortion. Distortion equals an
unbalanced foot. Corrective measures for the High Heel/Low Heel Syndrome:
Should one universally be concerned and looking to correct every horse who as
heel height asymmetry? Absolutely not! I do not advocate any of the several
possible "corrections" such as wedges, lifts, etc. unless by thorough
examination (static and moving) and the history and way of going indicate that
interference is needed. I do this by evaluation of reactive trigger and
acupuncture points, evidence of inadequate or inappropriate vertebral segment
motion and muscle palpation and recognition of hypertonicity within a muscle
or group of muscles. The role of the saddle and its proper fit needs to be
critically evaluated as it may be a very key link. This is an area where well
educated body workers, chiropractors and acupuncturists can be of great help
to the veterinary profession. What is the appropriate shoeing for this
condition? I feel that a cardinal rule is to work primarily with the foot that
has the lower heel. Additional problems are incurred if the heel of a true
“clubbed foot” is lowered excessively. Structures in the muscles called
spindle cell receptors and receptors in the musculo-tendonous portion called
Golgi bodies provide signals from the muscle or tendon to the spinal cord.
This data provides information to the central nervous system (CNS) about the
tension that exists in the muscles and tendonous structures. When the heel is
lowered on a clubbed foot the receptors in the deep flexor tendon are
activated and signal the CNS that there is too much stretch in the tendon. The
response from the CNS is to issue a signal to shorten the muscle or tendon
structures to prevent injury. This response provides one of the reasons why
that by the end of a shoeing period, a clubfoot that has had the heel lowered
usually looks as bad or worse as when originally seen. Lowering the heel on a
non-clubber foot but one in which the heels have been allowed to be high must
be done in small increments over several shoeings. It bears repeating that the
primary focus should be on the low heeled foot. I make no claims to be a
farrier. I have undertaken indepth study of foot issues, shoeing and podiatry
for many years now, because no horse can be corrected if the feet are no
reasonably balanced. My work will not achieve long range solution without
attention to the feet. My experience, until recently, had lead to the
conclusion that the best course of corrective shoeing is the use of wedges as
orthotic devices applied on the lower heel in order to achieve the same heel
height and pastern angle as the more upright foot. Sometimes it is necessary
to also use a “lift” such as a rim (or full) pad on the same or opposite foot
as well in order to create symmetry. Selection of wedge height or of a rim pad
thickness (on the same or opposite foot), is best determined after the horse
has been trimmed and balanced. Again, it is emphasized that this evaluation
must be made with the horse standing squarely on a firm level surface and
reassessing as earlier described Have the horse stand on the trial orthotics
(wedges, or a combination of wedges and rim pads) and evaluate for improvement
in symmetry. Use the same examination process as previously described. In
review, check factors such as the symmetry of the space between the legs,
height and angle of the joints, and the height of the styloid processes, Note
whether the “point” of the shoulder now comes into symmetry with the opposite
side. Again observe from above and behind to determine the effect on angle and
symmetry of the two scapulae. Sometimes the changes observed by this procedure
are dramatic. In longstanding cases (especially in older horses) the changes
are subtle and immediate results are not as evident, but will show improvement
in symmetry and performance over the course of multiple shoeings. Without
proper attention to break-over and heel support, the overall condition of the
foot can be made worse with the use of wedges. How can this be ameliorated?
When shoeing this type of foot the break-over must be set significantly back
to approximately 6 mm ahead of the tip of the coffin bone. (Good quality
radiographs with the frog apex marked are very helpful.) An improved heel
support, often achieved by slight lowering of the heel) should be used to
extend the buttress of the heel more rearward. The wedge should then extend
roughly 1/8 inch beyond the heel of the shoe. If breakover is set as described
the lowering will be compensated and pastern axis will remain correct. If
necessary a higher degree of “lift” can be utilized after extending the heel
by the lowering. The goal is to maintain proper pastern axis while giving an
extended heel support.. Following these precautions helps to prevent the heel
from further crushing. If the walls are already rolling under at the heels it
is necessary to trim them lower yet to the level where there is sound wall
growing in the proper direction and not rolling under. It follows that radical
trimming must be followed by using a larger wedge or other means in order to
create the appropriate heel height and pastern angle. For most cases, where
wedges are used, the author prefers an “open” bar wedge and where indicated,
rim pads instead of full pads. Frog supports may be helpful. A technique using
an acrylic product such as “Equithane” can be used to build both sole and heel
as well as provide an impression material effect to bring the low heel to
balance with the high heel and support the digital cushion. Caution should be
used not to carry the material forward of the “bridge” of the frog. If there
is evidence of digital cushion deterioration, it may be necessary to use full
pads and impression material as well as a frog support. In younger horses
there is a better rate of success in re-directing the hoof wall growth,
re-balancing muscle development and maintaining a back that can appropriately
accommodate a saddle. Quite a few of such horses may be taken out of all
support after a limited number of shoeings. Older horses with very long
standing problem and poor quality digital cushion are often best kept in the
appropriate amount of orthotic on an ongoing basis. Other options include
using a wedge shoe on the low heel side, swedging the heel, or simply leaving
more heel on the low side. In our experience, the latter choice is the least
desirable because the frog often looses the contact it needs to assist in any
possible restoration of the digital cushion and allows the heels to curve
inward putting pressure on the navicular area. If a higher heel is chosen, it
should be accompanied by impression material and a frog support on the solar
surface. New Information On A Potentially Valuable Shoeing Technique To
Ameliorate The Problems Of High Heel/Low Heel Syndrome: In the last three
months of 2005 until the present, a superb farrier with whom I work suggested
that we try just turning the last (approximately) one inch of the heels of the
shoe down on the affected foot. This can be very simply done without requiring
a forge or any elaborate equipment. Moreover, the shoe can be turned down to
any required degree to match the degree of lift needed to equal the height of
the higher heeled side. Breakover and heel length must still be as needed to
create appropriate biomechanics. To date we have had success with a large
number of horses (approximately 100 up until time of this revision). To date
we have not knowingly produced any untoward effects and have seen a fair
percentage of cases show a more appropriate angle of heel growth. We have had
no problem with keeping these shoes on during the shoeing period. Shoes used
have been of both aluminum and of steel. Shoes of both types have been used
with glue-on procedures as well as conventional nailing. This idea needs
further sturdy and use in different environmental conditions. Younger horses
may respond to therapy well enough to become fully rebalanced. Older horses
may require some form of correction during the remainder of their riding
career. Muscle Rebalancing: For muscle re-balancing to occur following
postural correction, the horse must be in work. There is always concern with
how much work is acceptable and how soon should work resume after shoeing
corrections have been done. It is, of course, always err on the conservative
side and work the horse lightly for the first week or ten days. However, I
have seen horses remain in athletic competition immediately after the shoeing
changes. Even with no decrease in intensity or schedule of competition, they
have suffered no apparent negative effects. I have seen a number of cases in
which good barefoot trimming procedures have corrected the pathologic effects
and brought the feet into good balance. There are many schools of thought and
on barefoot trimming. I have seen the best results from a relatively
conservative (not highly invasive type of trimming). For those interested, I
would refer you to http://www.hoofrehab.com for more information. Since so
many riders are themselves imbalanced, proper schooling and riding exercises
(beyond the scope of this paper) can also play an important part. I very much
believe that an interdisciplinary approach to this and most other horse
problems as it often opens other possibilities as to cause, effect, and
solution. Therefore, I welcome input from all sources. Conclusion: One last
point – if one is not happy with the results it is a simple matter to remove
the orthotics or altered shoe at any time. However, I believe that if the
farrier considers all the factors and shoes appropriately according to the
principles discussed, the results will be positive for all concerned.
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